Insulating
April 5
TEMP: 66°/ SUNNY
Insulating the roof and walls is the same. You start with 1" rigid insulations, and then will add the batt insulation once the electrical wires and plumbing is in place. Like we did to the floor we left roughly 3/4" on each side if the rigid insulation in order to run a line of spray foam around the perimeter. This gives the walls a really tight seal.
1. Cut the rigid to size of cavity
(Minus 3/4" on each side). Then add glue to the cavity so that the foam stays in place.
2. Add the Rigid insulation
Once you add the foam, push it tight to the glue. We used 2 or 3 - 1" screws to the foam to position it and make sure it stays tight to the plywood.
3. Foam around the cracks
We will cut the foam that expands past the rigid so that the batt insulation sits correctly in the cavity.
*Careful not to spend too much time in the house when you're spray foaming as the fumes are super strong!
4. Batt Insulation
Ceiling gets 24" Batt Insulation, walls get 16" (basically they fit based on the stud wall we built). Cut to length then staple onto the studs.
Since Kahla left for the PCT on May 4, we spent time finishing up the wiring, which allowed us to get the second phase of insulation (the battens) cut and stapled into place.
In order to be able to do finish insulation, things needed to be thought out, such as nailers for eventual shelving, supports for wall cabinets, bracing for the stairs to be attached to. With a few of those things still remaining to be done, we're almost ready to install the wall board in areas that won't be affected by plumbing installation. Note that were wires run through studs, although we run them back as far as possible on the stud, for future safety reasons, i put metal plates on the stud edge to prevent accidentally damaging the wires.